This one started off with so much promise:
Looks good, doesn't it? And really, how could you go wrong with chard and chickpeas, a little tomato, a little onion, some coriander? (The photo is missing the chickpeas, caraway, cilantro, and yogurt called for in the recipe, but they all showed up later and reasonably close to on time.) Ottolenghi recommended it as just the thing to brighten up a gloomy day, and lord knows, we've had some gloomy days around here lately. Seemed worth the try.
And even at the start of the braise, things still looked pretty... and pretty promising:
But what we ended up with looked nearly inedible (thus the tiny tiny monochrome picture):
So, yeah. Kind of meh. Healthy, though, and by the time I'd doctored it up, it was certainly worth eating. Maybe even a little interesting. But compared to the jazzy ensembles of exciting flavors that Ottolenghi has provided in past weeks, this one felt more like the kind of party where all the attendees are holding court in their separate corners... they're all making a lot of noise, but no one's having very much fun. After last week's extravagance, this was kind of a letdown.
Maybe it was the fault of the tamarind paste? Tamarind -- a tropical fruit grown mostly in Africa and South Asia -- is extremely tart. I'm used to it being paired with spicy curries, where its sour flavor brightens the heat and sweetness of the curry spices. Here, though, the very small amount of fragrant coriander that Ottolenghi includes was totally overwhelmed by the tart murkiness of the tamarind.
And those caraway seeds? They sure felt out of place, and it's not at all clear what Ottolenghi was aiming for by including two teaspoons of them. Instead of caraway, I'd add a tablespoon or two of my favorite curry powder (currently Penzey's), maybe a pinch or two of saffron, and possibly a tablespoon or two of Major Grey's Mango Chutney and go for something with a much more definite Indian/South Asian vibe.
As for that teaspoon of tomato paste that left an entire can of the stuff languishing in my refrigerator where it is likely to remain until mold begins to form? Can't see that it helped thicken the stew or boost the tomato flavor. Next time I'd leave it out entirely.
It took a generous pour of olive oil at the end, as well as some extra help from my shaker of red pepper flakes, and every bit of the allegedly optional yogurt to bring the flavors together. You'll want LOTS of cilantro leaves, or sliced green onions as well.
The verdict: This one was easy to make (a 2 on the Ottolenghi Perceived Exertion Scale), quite serviceable as a weekday meal, not too expensive to try, but so dull that I am not likely to ever make it again.
Am hoping for better results next week when I attempt the nutty endive with Roquefort (p. 160). See you then!



This did look promising - and I can actually purchase most of the ingredients locally. But, eck, even if it tasted fantastic, I don't think I could get past the grayness. I really do enjoy reading your commentary on these recipes. I offer you a tip as thanks: Someone told me the other day that you can buy tomato paste IN RESEALABLE TUBES. I haven't tried this yet, but I have several recipes that use a tablespoon, or even a teaspoon of paste. It always feels like such a waste.
ReplyDeleteThanks edeevee! Those tubes of tomato paste sound like something I need to own -- I'll be on the lookout for them.
DeleteAs for that picture of the final stew, it wasn't really that gray. I just colorized it so that it wouldn't look totally pukey. If I'd had more imagination, foresight, or inspiration, I might have tried nestling it into a well of white rice, topping it with a sprig of fresh cilantro, and photographing it against a bright background as this photographer did -- http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Lifeandhealth/Pix/pictures/2009/01/09/veg460.jpg -- for more appealing results.
Also, it turns out that this is one of those dishes where the flavor improves after sitting in the refrigerator for a day. We enjoyed our leftovers considerably more this evening: don't let my initial negative reaction deter you from trying this out. There are some good bones to this, but be prepared to adjust the seasonings to your own tastes. With all those greens and chickpeas and tomatos, it's definitely a healthy meal: one worth salvaging.
DeleteDisappointing. But I bet you could rework it into something tasty!
ReplyDeleteAm already plotting the Indian spice and coconut milk version...
DeleteOops -- I think I didn't comment right or clicked off too soon. I just said that I'll pass on this one -- but blue cheese and endive will melt my heart.
ReplyDeleteMine, too. Plus, I'm getting the feeling that salads is the place where Ottolenghi and I really connect.
Deletedarn and drat
ReplyDeletedoes not make me want to try it
but i still enjoyed your thoughts on the entire affair
as for the tomato paste, i would put it in the freezer to call on another time.
Thanks, Tammie, that's another good idea. My husband, though, SWEARS, he's going to use it this weekend.
DeleteI tend to steer clear of anything with the word "tamarind" in it due to a debacle by Mikaela (who is generally an excellent cook). Your "doctoring" made it sound plausible, however. I'm sorry this was a bust. I'm also sorry I managed to miss last week's installment! Going there now.
ReplyDelete